홈으로
초보자용 관상어이 글은 완전한 초보자를 위한 관상어(초보자용 관상어), 새로운 어종을 찾는 약간 경험이 있는 애호가를 위한 관상어(경험자용 열대어),그리고 초급자에게 적합하지 않은 관상어(초보자에게 좋지 않은 관상어)를 망라해서 관상어를 처음 시작하고자 하는 사람을 위한 물고기 선택방법을 다루고 있다.
이 FAQ는 전세계의 여러 기고자에 의해 작성되었습니다. 그러므로 본 FAQ는 rec.aquaria, alt.aquaria 뉴스 그룹의 모든 독자에게 소유권이 있습니다. 각 부분의 저작권은 각각의 원저자에게 있습니다. 본FAQ는 내용을 변경하지 않고 이 저작권에 관한 내용을 포함시키는 조건 하에 자유롭게 복사할 수 있습니다.
어떤 분야에서건 초보자는 적은 분량의 자료라도 그것을 이해하기 쉽지 않기 때문에, 관상어를 처음 시작하려는 사람은 우선 "초보자용 열대어"부분만 읽고 싶어할 수 있다. 그후 초보자용 책(초보자를 위해 가장 핵심적인 내용을 담은 책)을 읽는다든지 하면서 자신의 새 어항에 적합하다고 생각되는 고기들을 선택하여야 한다.
자기 주변에 관상어 상점을 잘 아는 사람이 있을 경우, 그 사람에게 어디에 가서 물고기를 구입할 수 있는 곳을 추천받는 것이 좋다. 그렇지 않은 경우에는, 물고기만을 전문적으로 취급하거나, 적어도 관상어를 주로 사업하는 상점을 찾아야 한다. 물론 후자의 방법이 항상 성공한다고는 할 수 없지만, 좋은 관상어 상점을 찾을 수 있는 가능성은 조금 높아지게 된다.
초보자가 관상어 상점에 갔다가, 자기가 구하려는 고기가 없다면, 설령 종업원이 권하는 고기가 있더라도 자기가 잘 모르는 고기를 선뜻 구입하지 말아야 한다. (매우 박식한 점원이 있을 수도 있지만, 그렇지 못한 곳이 더 많다. 초보자는 조금 시간이 흘러야 좋은 상점인지 아닌지 혹은 좋은 충고인지 아닌지 구분할 수 있게 된다.) 이런 상황에서는 다른 관상어 상점을 찾아 보거나, 다시 책을 보면서 차선의 고기를 찾는 것이 좋다.
초보자가 마음에 드는 열대어를 발견한 후에도, 혹시 그 고기가 배가 꺼졌거나, 눈이 들어갔거나 지느러미가 접히지 않았는지, 숨이 가쁘지 않는지 (종종 아가미 뚜껑이 많이 확장된 경우가 있다), 그리고 기생충이나 질병의 징후를 보이는 외부 상처가 없는지 살펴야 한다. 그리고 나서 고기가 건강해 보이면 자신의 어항과 고기의 크기에 맞는, 가능한 한 적은 수의 고기를 구입하여야 한다. 초보자에게는 80리터 정도의 어항이 적당하다. 이 정도의 이항은 수질이 안정적이면서도 관리하기가 쉽다. 이 수조에 2-5cm 짜리 고기 한 마리나 그 보다 적은 물고기 서너마리를 넣어 시작하도록 한다.(만일 더 많은 양이 고기를 넣을 경우 맹독성의 암모니아가 축적되어 물고기들이 죽을 수 있다. 그러나 고기의 수를 천천히 늘리면 이런 점은 문제가 안된다. 이렇게 서서히 고기의 수를 늘려가는 방법("어항의 물잡기"이라 알려진 방법)에 대해 좀 더 알고 싶을 경우, 관상어 책의 질소 사이클(nitrogen cycle) 부분 혹은, 관상어 초보자 FAQ의 물잡기(질소 사이클과 "신수조 증후군") 부분을 참고하라.
초보자용 관상어를 잘 먹고, 돌보기 쉬우며, 튼튼하고, 수질의 변화에 강하고, 아름다운 고기로 정의를 한다고 하면, 경제적으로도 비싸지 않으면서도 이러한 조건에 맞는 고기는 상당히 많다. 이러한 물고기들이 초보자용으로 꾸준히 팔리고 있다. 그러나, 초보자용으로 팔리고 있지만, 실제로는 이러한 조건을 갖추지 못한 관상어들도 많이 있으므로 주의하여야 한다.
크기가 작은 군영어종(집단으로 몰려다니는 어종 : 역자 주)중에는 초보자용으로 적합한 관상어가 많다. 백운산, 다니오와 라스보라 종 중에서 쉽게 구할 수 있는 몇몇 종, 그리고 대부분의 바브 종이 이에 속한다. 어항이 약간 클 경우에는 레인보우 피쉬가 군영어로 아주 좋다. 코리도라스도 인기있는 군영 메기종이다.
여러 종류의 군영어를 각각 한 두 마리씩 구입하고 싶어하는 초보자들이 많지만, 이는 반드시 피해야 한다. 군영어는 자기 주위에 서로 반응을 할 수 있는 동족이 여럿 있어야만 잘 생활할 수 있다. 코리도라스의 경우 최소 네 마리이상을 넣어야 하며, 어항의 중간층에서 유영하는 군영어는 최소한 여섯마리 이상을 같이 넣어야 한다. 결국엔 종류는 몇 가지 안되더라도 자연스럽게 행동하는 물고기가, 작은 어항에 서로 잘 어울리지 않는 여러 가지 물고기보다 훨씬 보는 이를 즐겁게 할 수 있기 때문이다. (엄마, 왜 저 물고기는 히터 뒤에 쳐 박혀 있고, 저 물고기는 구석에서 안나와요?")
물론, 개요에서 말한 바와 같이, 어항 속의 관상어 숫자는 한 번에 두 세 마리 씩 서서히 늘려가는 것이 좋다. 예를 들자면, 처음에는 라스보라 한 종을 여덟마리 구입하고, 다음에는 코리도라스 여섯마리를 구입하는 등과 같은 방법으로 물고기를 구입하는 것이 좋다.
백운산, 다니오 종, 라스보라 종 및 바브 종 등은 모두 아시아 산 잉어과 물고기들이다. 백운산, 다니오, 라스보라, 및 바브 등은 크기가 작고 활동적이며 튼튼하고 화려하다.
특히 어항이 적당히 크기만 하면, 대부분의 바브 종이 무리없이 적응하므로 너무 일찍 포기할 필요는 없다. 체리바브(Capoeta titteya)는 멋진 오렌지-레드 색을 띠고 5cm 까지 밖에 자라는 않는 아주 작은 종이다. 중간 크기의 바브(12cm 정도)에는 클라운 바브(Barbodes everetti), 로시 바브(Puntius conchonius), 검은 루비 바브(Puntius nigrofasciatus)등이 있다. 로시 바브 중에서 인공적으로 만들어진 종(긴 지느러미형, 알비노 등)은 약하므로 피하는 것이 좋다. 체커바브(Capoeta oligolepis)와 스패너 바브 (T-바브라고도 함, Barbodes lateristriga)는 크기는 크지만(18cm) 평화로운 종들이다. 매우 큰 어항이 없다면 Tinfoil 바브(Barbodes lateristriga) 피하는 것이 좋다. 30cm 이상 자라기 때문이다.
많은 바브 종이 다니오나 라스보라처럼 "멋지게" 군영을 하지는 않지만, 그럼에도 불구하고 집단으로 키워야 한다. 또한 많은 책들에서는 위에서 언급한 바브를 Barbus 종으로 분류하기도 한다.
코리도라스는 Callichthyidae족, 즉 남아메리카에 서식하는 아모드 캣피쉬(armored catfish) 종족의 일원이다. 코리는 언제나 수조 바닥에서 먹이를 찾아다니는 작고(일반적으로 6cm 이하) 군영을 한다. Corydoras 屬에는 최소한 140여 종이 있다. 이 중에는 매우 연약해서 전문가조차도 키우기 힘든 종도 있다. 그러나, 이렇게 연약한 종들은 관상어 판매점에서는 구하기가 힘들고, 설사 있다 해도 매우 고가에 거래된다. 우리가 싼 가격에 구할 수 있는 코리도라스는 대부분 튼튼하며, 물 표면에서 공기를 흡입해서 내장을 통해 호흡할 수 있기 때문에 수중 산소 농도가 낮은 곳에서도 살아남을 수 있다. 열대어 판매점에서 쉽게 접할 수 있는 코리도라스로는 브론즈 코리(C. aeneus), 점박이 코리(C. ambiacus), 코리도라스 쥴리(C. julii), 스컹크 코리(C. arcuatus), 밴딧 코리(C. metae), 코리도라스 팬더(C. panda)등이 있다.
코리도라스는 거의 대부분 어항 바닥에서 음식물을 먹기 때문에 전용 가라앉는 먹이를 줘야 한다. 이러한 먹이에는 Tabl-Min 이나 냉동 블러드 웜 등이 잇다. 냉동먹이의 경우에는 남은 먹이가 급속히 부패하므로 주의해야 한다. 먹이를 절대 과잉 공급하지 말 것!
레인보우 피쉬는 호주, 뉴기니아, 마다가스카르 등에서 서식하는 대단히 화려한 관상어이다. 레인보우 피쉬도 위에서 소개한 잉어과 관상어들처럼 군영을 하는 종으로서, 적어도 6마리 이상을 같이 사육하여야 한다. 위에 열거한 군영어들보다 조금 크고 값도 비싸며 조금 귀하긴 하지만, 사육이 용이하고 활동적이며, 조금 덜 흔한 것을 원하는 초보자에게 좋은 관상어이다. 판매점 상점에서는 호주 레인보우 피쉬(Melanotaenia splendida), 부스맨 래인보우 피쉬(M. boesemani), 터콰이즈 레인보우 피쉬(M. lacustris), 및 셀레베스 레인보우 피쉬(Telmatherina ladigesi) 등을 비교적 쉽게 구할 수 있다.
바로 앞 절에서는 완전한 초보자를 위한 관상어에 대해 언급하였다. 이번 장에서는 약간의 경험이 있거나, 관상어를 구입하기 전에 조심스레 연구를 한 뒤 구입할 의사가 있는 사람들을 위한 관상어들에 대하여 언급하려 한다.
이 절에서 나열된 관상어도 앞서 소개한 초보자용 열대어와 마찬가지로 튼튼하고, 적응을 잘 하며, 돌보기도 쉽다. 단지, 앞에서는 관상어의 전체 집단을 소개하거나, 기껏해야 각 집단에서 주의해야 할 한 두 종의 고기들에 대해 소개하는 정도였다. 그러나, 이 장에서 소개하는 집단에는 좋은 물고기와 나쁜 물고기들이 많이 섞여 있다. 또한 지금부터 소개하려는 물고기 증에는 특별한 조건이 만족될 경우에는 튼튼하게 잘 살 수 있는 것도 있다. 그러므로 이 절에서 소개하는 관상어를 잘 키우려면, 그 고기가 어떤 집단에 속하는 고기이며 어떠한 조건이 필요한지를 알아 둘 필요가 있다.
그러면 왜 이렇게 고민해야 하는가? 완전한 초보자일 경우에는 여기에 있는 물고기에 대해 고민할 필요도 없다. "초보자용 관상어" 목록에 있는 물고기를 선택하는 것이 위험부담을 최소화하는 길이다. 하지만, 경험이 쌓이다 보면 이 절에서 다루는 물고기를 시도해보고 싶어질 것이다. 그 중에는, 여기에 소개되는 많은 고기들이 아름답고 혹은 특이한 행동패턴을 보이는데 사로잡혀서, 자세히 연구하고 서로 교환하는 전문가 집단에 가입하는 사람들도 생기게 될지 모른다.
로취 류는 위에 서술한 바 있는 잉어과(바브,다니오등)의 먼 친척 뻘인, 아시아 산 몸통이 긴 물고기이다. 로취도 코리도라스처럼 입이 아래로 향하고 수염이 있어서, 호수나 강 바닥에서 서식하고 음식물을 섭취하는데 적응된 종이다. 로취는 다른 물고기가 먹다가 놓친 먹이를 주로 먹기 때문에, 충분히 먹고 있는 지를 꼭 확인하여야 한다. 로취를 잘 기르려면 가라앉는 먹이가 필수적이다.
로취 류 중 일부는 암모니아에 매우 민감하기 때문에, 초보자용으로 적합한 고기들 목록에 포함되지 못하고 이곳에 분류되어있다. 그러나, 일단 어항이 안정되고 어느 정도 유지 관리할 수 있을 정도가 된다면, 로취는 대부분의 여러 물고기와 매우 잘 어울린다.
가장 흔한 것이 쿨리 로취(Acanthophthalmus) 종이다. 쿨리 로취는 10cm까지 자라는, 길고 리본같이 생긴 어종이다. 쿨리 로취는 노랑과 갈색의 줄무늬가 있으며, 부끄러움을 잘 타서 하루의 대부분을 자갈에 숨어 지낸다.
로취 중에서 인기있는 다른 종류는 보티아 종이다. 클라운 로취(B. macracantha), 요요 로취(B. lohachata), 스컹크 보티아(B. horae), 블루 로취(B. modesta), 스트레이트 로취(B. striata) 등이 있다. 클라운 로취나 블루 로취 등은 크게 자라지만, 성장 속도가 매우 느리므로, 작은 수조내에서도 몇 년동안 키울 수 있다. 로취는 몇 마리를 함께 사육하는 편이 더 잘 지낸다.
웨더 로취(Misgurnus fossilis) 와 점 무늬 웨더 로취(Cobitis taenia)는 피해야 한다. 이들은 냉수어종일 뿐 아니라 특히 폭풍이 오거나 할 때 수조 밖으로 튀어나오는 안좋은 습성이 있다.
"플래코"(지금은 사용하지 않는 종명인 플래코스토머스의 준말)는, 로리카리드 족의 입이 빨판형으로 생긴 메기를 지칭하는 일반적인 명칭이다. 아래의 전문가용 관상어에서 언급하겠지만, 일반 플래코(하이포스토머스 종)는 초보자에게 이끼 청소고기로 팔리고 있다. 불행히도, 플레코 종은 너무 크게 자라므로 대부분의 초보자의 어항이 상대적으로 작다는 것을 고려할 때 초보자에게 어울리지 않는다.
그러나, 이렇게 흡인성 입을 가진 몇몇 종류의 메기 중에도 초보자가 기르기 좋을
만큼 작은 종류도 있다. 패콜시아(Peckoltia) 속의 클라운 플래코(Clown Pleco)는
짙고 옅은 갈색의 수직 무늬가 있는데 최대 10cm까지 자란다. 앤씨스트러스(Ancistrus)
속의 브리쓸노우즈 플래코(Bristlenose : 부시노우즈 플래코(Bushynose Pleco)라고도
함)는 그 이름에서 의미하듯, 눈과 입 사이에 수많은 돌기들이 나 있다. 브리쓸노우즈
종은 대부분 수컷이 더 큰데 특히 발정기 때에 더 두드러진다. 사실, 브리쓸노우즈는
로리카르드 중에서 집에서 성공적으로 번식할 수 있는 몇 안되는 종류 중 하나이다.
오토씽크러스(Otocinclus)는 연약한 수초도 손상시키지 않으면서 이끼를 잘 제거하는
가장 작은 로리카리드이다. 때때로 구입 직후 별 뚜렷한 이유없이 죽기도 하지만,
이 시기만 넘기면 잘 적응한다.
많은 종류의 빨판형 입을 가진 메기류가 여러 가지 이끼를 제거하는데 도움을
주는 것은 사실이지만, 이들을 단순히 이끼청소고기나 청소부라고 생각하는 오류를
범해서는 안된다. 플레코에게는 바닥에 떨어지도록 빨리 가라 앉는 전용먹이를 주어야
한다. 최근, 몇몇 물고기 먹이 제조업자들이 플레코 전용먹이가 상품성이 있다는
사실을 인식하고, 플래코 전용 가라앉는 먹이, 예컨대 알지 웨이퍼 같은 것을 시판하고
있다. 이러한 먹이를 줄 때는 불을 낮춘 저녁 이후에 주는 것이 좋다. 플래코는 저녁이후에
가장 활발히 돌아다니며, 경쟁관계에 있는 다른 고기는 활동이 둔해지기 때문이다.
대부분의 플레코는 유목을 갉아 먹고 소화시키므로, 어항에 (코팅하지 않은) 유목을
넣어주는 것은 중요한 일이다. 이러한 이유때문에 플래코를 나무어항이나 아크릴로
만든 어항에 키우면 안된다. 어항을 갉아서 손상을 주거나, 독이 있거나 소화가 안되는
물질을 삼켜서 다칠 수 있기 때문이다.
플래코는 같은 종끼리 서로 싸우는 경향이 있을 수 있고, 동작이 느린 관계로
다른 고기들에게 시달림을 당할 수 있다. 플래코를 위한 숨을 장소를 마련해두고,
몸의 크기에 맞는 영역을 확보해 주는 것이 좋다.(예 : 8cm 플레코 한 마리 당 40리터
공간)
Like many of the fish in the first section, Tetras are schooling fish and should be kept in groups of six or more of the same species. Tetras are native to Central and South America and Africa. In some regions of South America the water is quite soft (very little rock is dissolved in it) and acidic. (Another way of saying ``acidic'' is to say that it has a low pH - one below 7, which is considered ``neutral''. A strong acid has a very low pH. Liquids above pH 7 are said to be ``basic''.)
Unless you know that your tank water is also soft and acidic, the Tetras that need that water should be avoided. Before you buy a Tetra that you are not sure about, look it up in your book. If it says that it needs a pH below 6.5 you should probably avoid it. While many beginning aquarists are tempted to simply adjust the pH of their water by buying little containers of chemicals in the pet store, do not give in to this temptation! Water chemistry is very complex and you can easily kill all your fish by trying it.
On the other hand, if your tap water is naturally soft and achieves a consistent acidic pH, there is no reason that you can't try your hand at some of these fish.
Two very popular Tetras which need soft, acidic water are the Neon Tetra - Paracheirodon innesi and the Cardinal Tetra - Cheirodon axelrodi. These are quite attractive red and blue fish. The red line on the Cardinal runs from the head on back, while in the Neon it starts only in the belly region. But their attractiveness is their only advantage. Besides its water requirements the Neon has the added drawback that almost all of them are bred in the Far East in huge numbers with no regard to quality. Further, the raising ponds for the young fish are filled with medicines. The medicines keep diseases in check but as soon as the fish are shipped they begin to get sick. They die in huge numbers in the stores and in buyer's home tanks. Probably less than 1 in 10 Neons lives for more than one month after being removed from the pond it was raised in. Further, those two or three tiny neons for a dollar at the local store can easily introduce a disease that kills all the fish in your tank.
Cardinals will have a greater chance of not dying immediately after purchase but even they will probably not live long in your home tank. They are wild caught in Brazil as adults so they may have lived most of their naturally short life span before you buy them.
Other Tetras which need acidic water include the Blue Neon Tetra - Hyphessobrycon simulans, the Flag Tetra - H. heterorhabdus, H. metae, the Loreto Tetra - H. loretoensis, the Black Phantom Tetra - Megalamphodus megalopterus, and the Red Phantom Tetra - M. sweglesi.
So what about those aquarists without acid water? There are plenty of hardy Tetras out there for beginners without special water. These include the distinctive Black or Black Skirt Tetra - Gymnocorymbus ternetzi, the brightly colored Glow Light Tetra - Hemigrammus erythrozonus, the radiant orange Jewel Tetra - Hyphessobrycon callistus, the Flame Tetra - H. flammeus, and the red-tailed Pristella - Pristella maxillaris, all of which grow to less than two inches long. Slightly larger Tetras include the Penguin Tetra - Thayeria obliqua and the closely related Hockey-stick Tetra - Th. boehlkei, both of which are easily recognized by the black lines originating in the lower half of their caudal (tail) fins and running forward, the shiny Diamond Tetra - Moenkhausia pittieri, and the beautiful, trident-tailed Emperor Tetra - N. palmeri. Finally, the only African Tetra frequently seen, the Congo Tetra - Phenacogrammus interruptus is a gorgeous fish which grows up to four inches long.
Cichlids, members of the family Cichlidae, come from Central and South America and Africa, with a few species found in Madagascar, the Middle East and into Asia. Cichlids are quite unlike any of the fish discussed so far. They are related to and resemble the Perch and Sunfish of US waters. For aquarists, cichlids pose four major problems: (1) Some need special water conditions, (2) some have specialized diets, (3) some get quite large (the largest up to 3' long), and (4) all are territorial.
Again, why bother? Because for those willing to take the challenge, the rewards can be great. If any fish can be said to be intelligent, Cichlids can. They display this in their everyday activities as well as in their specialized mating, breeding, and fry-raising activities. The fish mentioned in the previous sections all lay eggs and then ignore or even eat them! Cichlids, on the other hand, care for their eggs and young. It is said that one of the most rewarding sights an aquarist can see is parental Cichlids herding their fry around the tank and protecting them from all dangers. And, even if your Cichlids never breed, they will be more responsive to you than perhaps any other fish. Cichlids can be much more ``pet-like'' than you might think a fish could be.
If you do decide to take the Cichlid challenge, choosing your Cichlids can be difficult. Some can be added to your community tank and will do fine with the schooling fish talked about above. These include Curviceps - Aequidens (really Laetacara) curviceps, Dorsigers - Aequidens (again, really Laetacara) dorsiger, and the less frequently seen Nannacara anomala, all from South America, and Thomas' Dwarf Cichlid - Anomalochromis thomasi from western Africa. Unlike the monster Cichlids, these fish stay small (3 1/2'' is a good sized adult) and are relatively peaceful. Two or three may be placed in a 10 gallon tank and they should still all find places to live if there are rocks and other decorations in the tank.
Other Dwarf Cichlids you may see are the Ram - Papiliochromis (some books use Microgeophagus or Apistogramma) ramirezi, Apistos - Apistogramma species, and the Checkerboard Cichlid - Dicrossus filamentosus (referred to as Crenicara filamentosa in the books). These fish vary in their difficulty for keeping as aquarium fish, but all of them should be avoided by beginners.
Keyhole Cichlids - Aequidens (really Cleithracara) maronii, Festivums - Cichlasoma (really Mesonauta) festivus, and Angelfish - Pterophyllum scalare can be good fish for the relative novice, but only if healthy specimens can be found and this is often not easy. For this reason, small Keyholes and Festivums should not be purchased. Adults of these two species are generally better choices; still, one should look the fish over carefully and not buy them until they have been in the store tanks for at least a week. Similarly, for the very popular Angelfish, one needs to be very careful when buying them. Before you buy, ask the salesperson to tell you where the store gets its Angels. If the salesperson doesn't know, won't tell you, or says that they come from ``the wholesaler'' (and who knows where before that?) don't buy them. If you are told that they come from a local breeder then you have at least a chance of getting healthy fish. Also, Angels should be kept in tanks both taller and longer than a 10 gallon aquarium. Keyholes, Festivums, and Angels are all shy fish and should be provided with cover -- preferably a planted tank.
Discus, like Angels, need tanks higher and longer than 10 gallon tanks. Their specialized needs do not stop there, however, and beginners should shy away from these difficult and demanding fish.
At the other end of the difficultly scale, a very good choice, especially for those with a 20 gallon or larger aquarium, is the ``Jurupari'' - Satanoperca leucosticta (formerly referred to in the hobby as Geophagus jurupari). It does get large (up to a foot), but it grows very slowly and may still be less than six inches long when several years old. It is a very peaceful Cichlid which will help to clean your tank by sifting through the gravel for uneaten food. A similar fish, Geophagus surinamensis, is also a good choice.
Kribs or ``Kribensis'' - Pelvicachromis pulcher are a widely seen West African Cichlid that will do well with the larger schooling fish and should be kept in a twenty gallon or larger tank. Male Kribs grow to be 4" long and females stay a bit smaller.
Most of the remaining cichlids which are commonly available are too aggressive and/or grow too large for the beginning aquarist to effectively deal with. This includes the very popular Oscar - Astronotus ocellatus which grows rapidly to over a foot, is opportunistically piscivorous, and is a very messy species. If the aquarist is truly interested in keeping more cichlids than those recommended above, she or he should be prepared to set up special, separate (and probably larger) tanks for these fish and to read more extensively on cichlids before buying them.
Anabantids are another group of fishes that are quite different from those already discussed. Distantly related to Cichlids and Perch, Anabantids are found in Africa and Asia. Members of the families Anabantidae, Belontiidae, Helostomatidae, and Osphronemidae, Anabantids are also referred to as the ``labyrinth fishes''. This is due to a special breathing organ referred to as the labyrinth organ which is essentially a maze of tunnels near the fish's gills. Labyrinth fish gulp air at the surface of the water and absorb it through the labyrinth organ, allowing them to live in water with too little oxygen to support fish which only breath through their gills. Some Anabantids can survive out of water for several hours breathing only through their labyrinths, as long as they stay moist. Anabas testudineus, known as the Climbing Perch, is said to be able to climb trees and to live out of water for up to two days.
As well as giving aquarists some additional choices for community-tank fish, Anabantids offer some unique options to fish keepers as well as presenting a few problems. Because some Anabantids are able to withstand cooler temperatures, and because of their ability to survive in water with very low oxygen, these fishes can be kept in tanks or bowls without heaters or filtration. On the other hand, some Anabantids (particularly males of some species) are very territorial and some grow quite large.
Breeding Anabantids can be quite rewarding. Some species build nests out of bubbles into which they place their eggs while others, like some Cichlids, are mouthbrooders.
The most commonly seen Anabantid is probably the Betta or Siamese Fighting Fish (which is generally said to be Betta splendens but is probably a crossbreed). Artificial color varieties with red, blue, green, purple, and many other colors in various combinations are widely available. Males are bred to have very large fins and both sexes are seen with double tails. Siamese Fighting Fish generally make poor choices for the community tank for two reasons. First, as their name would imply, they are very territorial. The aggression is greatest between two males, but can be directed towards any fish that looks to the Betta too much like another Betta. Second, their long fins make easy targets for many fish such as Barbs. Siamese Fighting Fish can be kept alone in bowls (the larger the better) or tanks without filtration as long as frequent partial water changes are done. They do need warm temperatures, however, and are sensitive to temperature changes, so a constant heat supply is needed if the room is less than about 75F. Also, due to poor breeding, many Siamese Fighting Fish are not very healthy. A 3" male would be a large adult; females stay smaller.
A better choice for keeping alone in a bowl or small tank is the Paradise Fish - Macropodus opercularis. These are much hardier fish than the Fighters and can withstand temperatures down to 60F. They may jump, however, so the tank should be covered to be safe. Also, like Siamese Fighting Fish, male Paradise Fish can be extremely territorial towards one another. Paradise Fish may get up to 4" long.
Another very commonly seen Anabantid is the Blue or Three-Spot Gourami - Trichogaster trichopterus. Gold, Silver, and Cosby Gouramies are also widely available and are simply artificial color varieties of the Blue Gourami. Blue Gouramies can get up to 6" long. They are not as aggressive as Fighters or Paradise Fish, but more than one in a small tank may lead to constant (if not overly deadly) chasing. They will do well in a tank with larger schooling fishes. Similar, though slightly smaller species include the Banded or Giant Gourami - Colisa fasciata (which is only a giant compared to the similarly colored Dwarf Gourami described below), the Thick-lipped Gourami - Colisa labiosa and the somewhat less aggressive Pearl Gourami - Trichogaster leeri and Moonlight Gourami - T. microlepis. The Kissing Gourami - Helostoma temmincki grows larger (up to 12") but makes a good fish for beginners with larger tanks. It is peaceful, though males will contest with one another by pressing their lips together and pushing - the so-called ``kissing'' from which the common name derives. Most Kissing Gouramies seen will be of the Pink variety.
Small Gouramies, only growing to 2" or so in length, are also available. These include the Dwarf Gourami - Colisa lalia, the Honey Gourami - C. chuna, and the Sunset Dwarf Gourami (probably a cross between C. lalia and C. chuna). In theory, these would all be good fish for the community aquarium. In practice, these fish are often the victims of poor breeding practices in the Far East (like so many others described before) and many are even treated with hormones before they are shipped to make them appear brighter in the store tanks. A good rule of thumb is, ``If it looks too good to be true, it probably is.''
Although harder to find, Anabantids which have had less human interference with their reproduction are generally better choices. Look for the Mouthbrooding Betta - Betta pugnax, the Licorice Gourami - Parosphromenus deissneri, the Spike-Tailed Paradise Fish - Pseudosphromenus cupanus, the Croaking Gourami - Trichopsis vittatus, and the Dwarf Croaking Gourami - T. pumilus, which range in size from 1" to 4". Do not buy Chocolate Gouramies - Sphaerichthys osphromenoides which are quite delicate, or the true Giant Gouramies - Osphronemus spp. which grow quickly to well over two feet long.
The family Poeciliidae contains Guppies, Mollies, Platies, and many other fishes. While these fish are often thought of as beginners' fish they have been intentionally left off the list until now in order to make a point. The reasons these fish are often sold to beginners are that they are cheap, brightly colored, and have a general reputation among non-aquarists as easy fish. Notably absent from this list is any real suitability for keeping by beginners. For one thing, many livebearers need high level of salt in their water to be healthy - making them incompatible with many other aquarium fish. Many common livebearers also are overbred, resulting in fish not nearly as healthy as those kept by aquarists of previous generations (or by the authors of most books). Some are not even able to reproduce without human intervention. Finally, due to their low market price, they are generally not well cared for and may carry diseases.
Poeciliids, as they are also called, come from the Americas, primarily Central America. They are called ``livebearers'' (as opposed to ``egg-layers'', as all the previously discussed fish have been) because the eggs are fertilized within the female and the fry do not appear until the eggs have hatched. There are also livebearers from other families in which the details of reproduction vary.
The well-known Guppy can be found in a number of colors and with as many as 12 different artificial tail varieties. Also available is the closest thing that you may find to the wild Guppy - Poecilia reticulata: ``feeder Guppies'' which are not bred for color. The fancy strains tend to be fragile while common Guppies often carry diseases. Guppies should be kept in water with at least one teaspoon of salt per five gallons of water.
Common Mollies are the Black Molly (which was derived from the Marled Molly - Poecilia sphenops) and the Sail-Fin Molly - Poecilia velifera (of which there are also several color varieties available). Black Mollies need at least one teaspoon of salt per five gallons of water to keep them healthy and prevent the outbreak of ``ich'' (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, a parasite commonly seen in aquaria) while Sail-Fin Mollies need at least three times this amount. Sail-Fins grow to 6" while Black Mollies stay less than 3".
Closely related, Swordtails - Xiphophorus helleri and Platies - Xiphophorus maculatus are also popular fish. A number of color and finnage varieties are available of each with some of the Platies also referred to as ``Moons''. These fish need at least a teaspoon of salt per 5 gallons of water to be healthy. Some varieties are susceptible to various maladies (Tuxedo Swords often get tumors, for instance) and as with so many other fish the naturally colored fish are probably your best bets. ``Green Swords'' (which are really multi-colored) are naturally colored X. helleri, but unfortunately wild morphs of Platies are not often seen. The Variegated Platy - Xiphophorus variatus is sometimes seen, however, and fills this role nicely.
We have already discussed several poor choice for beginners' fish alongside their more desirable cousins. Here are more fishes that are seen in the stores that beginners should be warned about. Many of these fish make good fish for advanced hobbyists while others never make good aquarium fish. Some are even suitable for a well-informed beginner; you just need to know what you are getting yourself into before you buy the fishes on impulse and drop them into your community tank.
Goldfish are one of the most common fish sold to beginners, but are particularly poorly suited to this role. The common Goldfish sold as feeders are generally full of diseases and parasites which may kill them and other fish they are housed with. Fancy varieties, which have been selectively bred for centuries to achieve their unnatural appearances, are subject to a host of problems associated with their abnormalities.
All Goldfish are cold water fish which do not do well in the lower oxygen levels found in tropical aquaria, and therefore should not be housed with tropical species.
Piranhas are among the most abused of all aquarium fish. They are often purchased in order to watch their legendary feeding habits. As mentioned above, feeder fish often bring diseases and parasites with them and these can infect Piranhas. A regular diet of feeder fish can also be quite expensive.
Piranhas are schooling fish and are generally shy and stressed when kept as single specimens. Unfortunately, they also get big (many species well over a foot long), so most beginning aquarists don't have room to house more than a single Piranha. If enough tank space is available to keep several Piranhas together, they must be kept well fed or they will turn on each other, killing and cannibalizing one fish after another.
There are several families of fish from South America, Africa, and Asia, referred to as Knife Fishes. Many species of Knives get large, some over 3' long although some of the less attractive species stay as small as 8". All of them are nocturnal predators, a fact that many a beginner could have used before all of his or her small fish ``mysteriously'' disappeared a few at a time.
Somewhat related to Tetras, Hatchets (family Gasteropelecidae) and Pencils (genus Nannostomus) are Characins from South America. Many of them need soft and acid water and all of them are delicate. Hatchets have the added disadvantage that they tend to launch themselves out of the aquarium to an untimely death.
More fragile fish include Elephant Noses - Gnathonemus petersi and Baby Whales - Petrocephalus bovei. African fishes from the family Mormyridae, these are night feeders and are hard to provide for in the aquarium.
Chinese Algae Eaters - Gyrinocheilus aymonieri are often introduced into the aquarium to do what their common (sales) name implies - eat algae. They are usually seen at a small size and many die within a short time of purchase. If they live, however, they get big (up to a foot long) and tend to prefer to rasp at the sides of slow moving fish (making them susceptible to infections) to eating algae.
Not a shark at all but a Cyprinid (related to the Carp), Bala Sharks - Balantiocheilus melanopterus quickly outgrow most home aquaria. They get to be over one foot long.
Unrelated to the Bala Shark or to true sharks, the Iridescent Shark - Pangasius sutchi is a catfish. It grows to over 3' and tends to injure its nose against the aquarium glass.
Another catfish to avoid is the Glass Catfish - Kryptopterus bicirrhis. While it stays small enough to be an aquarium fish (up to 6"), it is very delicate and should not be purchased by beginners.
The suckermouth catfish of the genus Hypostomus are often sold in the stores as algae cleaners. Most of these species get in excess of 12". Some of the slender suckermouth catfish, such as the Whiptail - Dasyloricaria filamentosa and the Farlowella - Farlowella gracilis, are quite delicate species.
Catfish don't have long whiskers for looks. They are there to help them hunt for their food - other fish! In addition to eating all fish of less than half their size in the tank, many of the piscivorous (fish-eating) Cats will outgrow most tanks. One common species of long-whiskered catfish, the Pictus Cat - Pimelodus pictus grows to 10" while the Channel Cat (a pink form is often seen) grows over 2 feet long. Shovelnose Cats are usually only seen at six inches or greater, so the beginner does have some warning with these. Still, one might not expect them to get 2 or 3' long.
Red-Tailed Catfish - Phractocephalus hemiliopterus are particularly large-growing predatory catfish. A dark body with a horizontal white stripe and red tail gives them an attractive appearance at a small size that has unfortunately made them a popular aquarium fish with those who fail to appreciate the enormity of adults. Adults may grow to well over 4' in length and have mouths that more than match their lengths. As such, they are more than many public aquaria can house, not to mention private aquarists.
Spiny Eels (family Mastacembelidae) are aggressive fish, some of which grow quite large (over 3'). Some do stay small (less than 4" for one species), but all are likely to have internal parasites.
Painted Glassfish are Glassfish - Chanda ranga which have been ``painted'' with chemical dyes. This procedure adds a temporary bit of unnatural color (which disappears with time) and stresses the fish, causing them to be prone to diseases and parasites. This fish needs at least 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of aquarium water.
While Painted Glassfish were for a long time the only fish commonly seen that had been ``colorized'' by unscrupulous marketers, the last few years have seen several other fishes subjected to this abuse. One of these is the White Skirt Tetra (an albino version of the Black Skirt Tetra - Gymnocorymbus ternetzi) which are sold as Blueberry Tetras, Strawberry Tetras, Rainbow Tetras, etc. depending on the dyes used to color the individuals. Similarly, Blueberry and Strawberry Loaches have also been seen. If you are unsure if a fish has been dyed, ask.
I have already mentioned some fish, such as Mollies and Glassfish, which come from brackish waters - I simply have not called it that before. Brackish water is intermediate between the fresh water of most rivers and lakes and the salt water of the Oceans. Brackish water is found in gulfs, deltas, and lagoons, as well as a some lakes and rivers. Because brackish water fish need so much salt in their water they are not compatible with most aquarium fish. Further, brackish water fish generally need more room per fish to stay healthy than freshwater fish. Some commonly seen brackish water fish include Monos - Monodactylus species, Archers - Toxotes species, Scats - Scatophagus species, and many species of Puffers (family Tetraodontidae).
If brackish water fish are to be avoided by beginners, then beginners should stay well away from salt water fish. Their bright colors are attractive, but they are generally much more difficult for beginners to keep alive than are fresh water fish.
There are thousands of species of aquarium-suitable fish from a host of families that are not covered above; this article is far from comprehensive. Killifish (fish of the family Cyprinodontidae) for example, are widely kept by many advanced hobbyists, but not often by beginners. This is not because they are all unsuitable as beginner's fish. In fact, some of them would make very good first or second fish. They are simply not widely available in pet stores.
For choices of good beginners' fish beyond those listed here, and for expanding once one has moved beyond the beginner level, local aquarium clubs and friends who are aquarists can be very good sources of information. So can many of the available fishkeeping books and magazines. At every level of experience, the aquarist will find that good information is well worth the time and/or money it takes to get it.
Return to Main Map